Improvement in shetland shawls



F. PARRAND. Shetland Shawl.

Patented June 18, 1878.

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UNITED STATESQPATENT QFFIGE.

'FREDRIOK FABRAND, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN SHE'II'LAND SHAWLS.

Specification forming partof Letters Patent No. 204,959, dated June 18, 1878 application filed May 13, 1878.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREDRIcK FARRAND, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Shetland- Shawls, of which the followingis a specification:

This'invention relates to improvements in Shetland shawls, and to the method of making and securing the fringe border thereto.

1n the manufacture of fringed Shetland shawls, as now made, the fringe, made in long straight pieces, is sewed upon selvage-edges of the center-piece or body portion of the shawl fabric by means of a needle, the stitch being that commonly known as the running stitch. Such method of attaching the fringe is, however, very objectionable, because of the difficulty of securing the fringe to the shawl fabric evenly without puckering or drawing such fabric or straining it at the square corners of the center-pieces.

In this my invention the fringe is attached to the body portion by tyin git at intervals by knotthreads, which pass about aheading-course and the selvage of the fabric. To do this, the body or center portion of the shawl, knitted as usual, has its selvage-edges placed over selvage-pins upon a fringe-forming frame; then heading and ball courses of yarn are laid about certain other pins in rows parallel, or substantially so, with the selvage pins; then spanning threads are laid or wound alternately from the outside rows of pins to the selvage-pins, across the heading and ball courses, and such spanning-threads are. tied to the heading and ball courses, where they cross each other by knot-threads, after which all the ball-courses are out between the points where they are tied to the spanning-threads.

The drawing illustrates, in top View, a fringeforming frame set with pins, to illustrate the manner of making and applying fringe to a Shetland shawl in accordance with my invention.

The fringe-forming frame a (shown shaped for the formation of fringe upon a square bodypiece, 1)) is provided with a series of selvagepins, 0, ,next its inner edge, for the reception of the selvage-edges of such bodypiece, it being knitted in any usual way and of any desired pattern. At the outer edge of this frame is a row'of pins, d, for the reception of that course of yarn d which is subsequently to be converted into balls W, for the formation of the bottom of the fringe. Between these two rows of pins, at or near the corners of the frame, or at suitable places, are other rows of pins, e f, one or more, to hold other ball-courses of yarn, e f, and a row, 9, for the course of yarn g, which is to serve for the inner edge 0 the heading.

The course or courses of yarn, h, for the outer edge of the heading is laid about the selvagepins above the selvage-edges of the body por- 7 tion b. The spanning threads or yarns are passed in zigzag course from pins 0 61 across the ball and heading courses next the frame a, such courses being held by pins 0 d e f g, as described and shown and at the points where these threads cross the ball andheadingcourses they are tied by knot-threads c, manipulated by hand, at every such crossing fast or hard knots beingv formed to hold such crossing threads firmly together. The knot-threads which tie the heading to the shawl fabricalso surround the selvage of such fabric. This being done, the ball-courses are out between the points where they are tied to the adjacent spanning-threads, resulting in the formation of short strands for balls, as shown in the drawing.

The selvage-pins at the corners of the frame are arranged closer together than at other portions, such arrangement of the pins enabling me to form a fringe upon the square corners of the shawl fabric without puckerin g the corners. In this way it is obvious that I am enabled to place the different yarns or threads to form the fringe in such position with relation to the selvage of the shawl fabric that the fringe will bemade shorter at its inner edge than at its outer edge.

This plan of making the fringe upon the frame provided with pins, as described, to

hold the shawl fabric in place, and tying the fringe to the selvage-edges of such fabric, enables me to make the proper length of fringe for a shawl of less stock than if the fringe were made straight, for in straight fringe all' the'heading and ball courses of yarn are of equal length.

In this my plan I avoid cutting or plaitin g the fringe at the square corners of the shawl, and consequently such (the square corners) never pucker, as is usually the case when a straight fringe is sewed upon a shawl.

The fringe made and attached in this way does not show a lap at the corners of the shawl, and at its junction with the shawl makes a very neat appearance, and is not liable to be drawn and puckered by strain upon center part of .the shawl all as and for the purpose described. a

2. In the manufacture of shawls, the hereindescribed process of forming the fringe and uniting it to the body part, consisting in placing the selvages or outer edges of thejbodypiece overselvage-pins, stretching about such selvage edges and parallel therewith, heading and ball formingcourses of yarn crossing such yarns with spanning-threads, tying by knotthreads the crossings of the spanning-threads with the heading and ball-forming courses of yarns, and tying the heading-yarns with the selvage, substantially as described.

3. A shawl combined with a fringe having a heading, the outer edge of which, or that next the selvage of the shawl, is made shorter than the inner edges, substantially as de scribed.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

FREDRICK FARRAND. Witnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, N. E. WHITNEY. 

